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Finding Suspension Componant Play-
Loose Bearings Bushes Knocking etc

If you suspect that a componant in the Suspension is worn out or loose... is it like this!!!

The secret to finding out what IS loose is to to methodically eliminate the potential causes.

Rear Wheel "Play" first:

If the jacking points are safe to use, jack the rear road wheel off the road ( else with care use the SOLID SUPPORTED rear subframe flange) and with the help of an observer grasp the rear roadwheel and pull the top of the wheel toward you while pushing the bottom away from you and repeat ( imagine the roadwheel is a steering wheel and you are holding at a 12 O'Clock / 6 O'Clock)

If you feel "looseness" ( I call this "play") now.... pull the wheel from left to right ( imagine the roadwheel is a steering wheel and you are holding at a 9 O'Clock / 3 O'Clock)

If you feel "looseness" now BOTH at 12/6 AND 9/3 AS WELL... get the "observer to apply the brakes

IF while the brakes are applied the "play" disappears SUSPECT A WORN OR LOOSE WHEEL BEARING

IF the play continues HAVE YOUR OBSERVER look as follows

IF PLAY LEFT-RIGHT - looseness of the radius arm bearings

IF PLAY ALL AROUND - looseness of the stub axle / radius arm bearings mountings

HAVE your OBSERVER look or feel for RELATIVE movement between componants in the suspension NORMALLY held together THROUGH a BEARING or BUSH

YOU can confirm WHERE the "play" is ......

... use either your hand to grasp and "damp out" the movement or "soak up" the movement using a lever such a a screwdriver..

MY TIP: If you suspect the problem lies in the radius arm or mountings, jack the road wheel off the road using the bottom of the shock absorber ( protect it with a block of wood DO NOT GO UNDER THE CAR) ......play NOT from the wheel bearing/stub axle will be greatly reduced

FRONT Wheel "Play":

If the jacking points are safe to use, jack the road wheel off the road ( else with care use the SUPPORTED front subframe flange below the supsension NOT the light gauge area ) and with the help of an observer grasp the roadwheel and pull the top of the wheel toward you while pushing the bottom away from you and repeat ( imagine the roadwheel is a steering wheel and you are holding at a 12 O'Clock / 6 O'Clock)

If you feel "looseness" ( I call this "play") now.... pull the wheel from left to right ( imagine the roadwheel is a steering wheel and you are holding at a 9 O'Clock / 3 O'Clock)

If you feel "looseness" now BOTH at 12/6 AND 9/3 AS WELL... get the "observer to apply the brakes

IF while the brakes are applied the 12/6 & 9/3 "play" disappears SUSPECT A WORN OR LOOSE WHEEL BEARING

IF the ASSISTANT can feel movement through the brake pedal as you move the roadwheel while the BRAKES ARE ON = WHEEL BEARING IS LOOSE!!!!

IF the play continues WITH THE BRAKE ON ...... HAVE YOUR OBSERVER look as follows

IF PLAY ALL AROUND? - worn out or loose bottom suspension arm bushes / top supsension arm bearings / loose DRIVE FLANGE

IF PLAY LEFT-RIGHT - looseness of the track rod end bearing / worn out or loose TIE ROD bushes

IF PLAY UP-DOWN - looseness of the top & bottom swivel hub joints

HAVE your OBSERVER look or feel for RELATIVE movement between componants in the suspension NORMALLY held tightly together THROUGH a BEARING or BUSH

YOU can confirm WHERE the "play" is by using either your hand to grasp and "damp out" the movement or "soak up" the movement using a lever such as a screwdriver....

MY TIP: If you suspect the problem lies in the suspension or mountings, if you jack the road wheel off the road using the bottom suspension arm ( protect it with a block of wood DO NOT GO UNDER THE CAR) play NOT from the wheel bearing area will be greatly reduced

Subframe mounting play:

If the subframe mounts are worn, you can get "knocking" on braking /acceleration and vague steering....

Get a passenger to look for movement of the subframe bolts in the footwell relative to the floor (loose bolts or "lozenged" U shaped bolt holes) .... look for movement of the steering rack relative to the body ( loose mounting bolts).. look for movement of the subframe relative to the body when car is parked and you try to turn the steering wheel .. lookfor relative movement between body and subframe as the car is jacked up....

if the car can be lifted off the ground by the bodyshell you can look for relative movement of the subfraame against the body

IN EXTREME CASES:

(i) pushing the vehicle forward with ONLY the handbrake on

(II) pushing BACKWARDS with the vehicle in gear

Will show real subframe mount problems as the wheels move backwards/forwards RELATIVE to he wheel arches!!!!

Worn Wheel Bearings?:

While you are in a position to turn the roadwheels manually FEEL for grinding & Binding as you turn the roadwheel with the brakes off

If you suspect your brakes are binding... get an assistant to apply then release the brakes .. turn the roadwheel again and if the brakes do not feel as if they are "off" after a few turns this might suggest a stciking brake cliper piston or cylinder ( confirm with unequally worn pads/sohes left/right and/or Bluing of the brake disk/drum)

Article by FB after Bitter Personal Experience added 05 01 2003

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