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ROD CHANGE VEHICLES
Remove the horizontal bolt that connects the stay bar to the differential housing
Experiment with the right gear selection & NOTE THEM to give the best clearance behind (for removal) (AND later IN FRONT for replacement) the alloy collar on the gearbox end of the shaft....
Drive out the pin that passes throught the gear selector rod and the adjoining collar.....
USE THE PROPER DRIFT THEY ONLY COST A TENNER
pull back both the two rods and push them towards the ground
insert a self tapping screw deep into the centre of one side of the seal now do the same opposite.............
use a pair of pliers to lever a little on each screw until the seal is pulled from its housing
(OR the seal can be hooked out after peircing with a strong pointed rod like a BBQ kebab spear)
Now check to see if a second seal has been fitted if so remove in the same manner..... THERE MAY BE MORE THAN ONE SEAL IN THERE!!!!
Fit the 'O' Ring to the outside of the aluminium support bush if supplied ......
(the ally support bush in the kit will make the seal last a lot longer but the gearshift may be stiff for a while if the rod is damaged)
..... and push it over the rod and into the housing this can be tapped in with a suitable sized socket drive it in just far enough to leave enough room for the outer rubber seal to be fitted just inside the housing,
Then slide the bellows over the shaft and refit the stay bar and selector shaft.
NEVER REUSE OR "MAKE TIGHTER/SLACKER" a dodgy gear change roll pin... use the existing one ONLY if you are 100% sure or get a new one... IT WILL DROP OUT IF SLIGHTLY LOOSE!!
More from Peter Kay on the Subject (Added 13 Jan 2002)
After carrying out the fitting of the gear rod seal modification kit on several Minis, I can offer several pointers to prevent a reoccurrence of oil leaks at this point.
You do not mention if you purchased the seal on its own or the modification kit, which also includes an aluminium bush and outer 'O' ring.
Because of this, and to help others, I will try to describe both procedures, as they do overlap.
First of all you must remove the roll-pin from the front coupler on the rod change, i.e the one nearest to the gearbox . This pin, which is more accessible if reverse gear is engaged, can be very tight and it is essential that the correct size, square ended, parallel drift is used. I use one marked 3/16 inch, which seems to be ideal, (4mm is too big). Because it is a hollow roll-pin, which is split along its length, anything tapered or too small, tends to spread the pin and thus jam it in the hole. With the pin removed and the coupler withdrawn from the gearbox shaft, the old seal is now removed. The best way, in my experience, is to drill a small hole in an accessible portion of the seal to just penetrate its metal backing. Locate a suitable self tapping screw in the hole and then tighten it to force out the seal as the screw end engages on the rear of the housing. (If a suitable drill is not available, the self tapping screw can often be located by tapping its head with a hammer) NOTE: With the seal removed, I always carry out the following procedure which, if not carried out, is the reason why many seals leak very shortly after fitting:-
Examine the gearbox shaft for burring or grooving around and along its length.
Using fine wet and dry paper, or fine Emery cloth, polish the shaft carefully to remove any blemishes.
When the shaft is smooth, wipe clean to remove any residue.
If a modification kit is being fitted, grease the supplied `O' ring with a suitable chassis grease (Castrol LM) then fit to the groove in the aluminium support bush. Position the bush assembly on to the shaft, then insert it fully into position in the gearbox housing. To ensure that the seal is a tight fit in the housing, which prevents it sliding out, degrease the bore of the housing which engages with the outer rim of the seal with methylated spirits.
With or without the modification bush, lightly smear both the shaft and the inner lips of the new seal with grease, ensuring that the seal inner lip is free from damage.
Degrease the outer rim of the seal with meths, then carefully position the seal on the shaft, with its open side towards the gearbox. Push it gently into position in the housing, being careful to avoid any sideways movement which may damage the lips on the seal. Using a suitable piece of tubing or deep socket, tap the seal fully into position, which is either hard against the modification bush, or the innermost face of the housing.
NOTE: If a modification bush is not fitted, then there is sufficient space in the housing to fit a second seal, immediately behind the first one.
I recommend the bush kit, but a second seal, fitted as previously described, does help to increase the time before a leak occurs. Engage the rod change bush on to the gearbox shaft, then carefully align the securing pin holes. Insert a suitable small rod or screw through the shaft and coupling to temporarily hold in position.
It does help if an assistant can hold the gear leaver in the position required. De-burr the end of the roll-pin, using a fine file, adding a slight taper around one end. This action makes locating the pin into the shaft much easier
Insert the tapered end of the roll-pin into its location in the coupling, which will push out the temporary pin inserted previously. Whilst gently tapping the end of the pin, and with the gear lever supported by an assistant, move the coupling slightly, as necessary, to engage the roll pin into the shaft.
When engaged, tap the pin fully into position with the ends of the pin flush with the coupling. Job completed and, if done carefully, will last for many years. Hope this helps.
Pete Kay (ERA Mini Turbo) see the site at http://www.eraturbo.com
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