Article on The Internet Mini Encyclopædia
Geometry ( Standard Rover Factory Settings Below)
|Race||-1 -> 2'||5 -> 6'||0|
|Tarmac comp||-1.5'||4.5 -> 5'||0-1/16|
|Hillclimb||-1.5'||6 -> 7'||0|
|Proper Road||-0.75 -> 1.0'||3-4'||0-1/16|
|Rover||+1 -> 3'||2-4'||1/16 (1.58mm - close enough)|
|Hillclimb||1/16||-0.5 -> 0.75|
|Loose comp||1/8||-0.5 -> 1.0|
|Rover||1/8 ( 3.17mm)||+0.5 -> 2.5 or what day it is, or what side are we on! :-)|
Note: Miglia and Se7en racers often use castor angles is large as 8', but it is a matter of personal preference.
Haynes say standard trim height (hydrolastic) = 343 mm +/- 9.5mm
If one side of your (rubber cone) suspension is a little low, either
the rubber cone is getting old
the knuckle joint/plastic cup is worn out.
Assuming that the knuckle joint/cup is ok, a cheap fix for adjusting the ride height is to place a washer between the knuckle joint and the suspension trumpet. The knuckle can be tapped out of the cone with a hammer and a thin piece of metal/wood. I think the ratio on the rear is 5:1 and the front 3:1 so a 2mm washer applied to the rear suspension will increase the ride height by approx. 10 mm. The same washer applied to the front will increase the height by 6mm. If you need to use more than two washers - replace the rubber cone instead!
When re-fitting the suspension, always clean and regrease the knuckle joint/cup.
See also Adjustarides
Tie-bar, replacement hints
When you replace the bolt at the bottom-arm end, the bolt should squeeze past the CV body (with the gaitor pulled clear).
DO NOT whatever you do be tempted to put the bolt in upside-down. It MUST have the nut underneath. This is to ensure that if the nut comes off, the bolt will stay in place giving you chance to investigate. If that bolt falls out you are off the road into the nearest tree.
To avoid the nut coming off in the first place, use a spring washer - it should not come undone if its tightened up correctly. You could also use a nylock nut.
Factory (ha!) Settings
Source: Haynes Workshop Manual 1969 to 1996 up to P reg (UK) (added 25 11 02 by FB)
front 1.58mm toe out
3 +/- 1 degrees positive castor
2 +/- 1 degrees positive camber
rear 3.17 mm toe in
0.5 to 2.5 degrees positive camber
castor not applicable to rear as swing arm
Shock Absorbers, easier access
Jim Houston has this tip:
"Anyone who has changed the rear shocks on a Mini knows about the necessity to remove the fuel tank to gain access to the top of the shock. This can be a real pain! On my '64 Morris Cooper "S", I cut a hole in the rear bulkhead in line with the shock mount.
Mine were about 6" high and 8" wide, but you can size to fit - just remember you will be working through this hole with both hands and a couple of wrenches. This allows access to the shock mount without removing the fuel tank. The hole can be covered using an aluminum plate, gasket and either some self-tapping sheet metal screws or Tinnerman fasteners. If you have two tanks, cut two holes."
The maintainers of the IME were concerned about the use of hole cutting in a panel that does have some structural function, hence this follow-up:
"I understand your concern about structural members. I considered that before making the modification myself.
However, I figured that since BLMC puts a big round hole in the center of the rear bulkhead, a couple of small holes shouldn't present any problems. In addition, if the panel used to cover the hole is secured properly, there is no loss of strength in any event. I used aircraft specification hardware, and spaced the screws 2" apart (which gave me one at each corner, 2 on top and bottom and one on each side - total 10 fasteners).
There are numerous panels on aircraft that are structural in nature and are removable - it is a function of the fasteners being of good quality (that's why I used aircraft hardware), and in sufficient quantity, plus the thickness of the panel (I used .040 thickness).
All in all, I drove the car from 1975 to 1984 without any problems appearing as the result of this modification."
... which sounded a lot better to us.
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